Now in its fifth year, Masterpiece London returns as the main event at the peak of the capital’s summer season. The five-day fair, held on the South Grounds of the Royal Hospital Chelsea, attracts patrons, collectors and curators from all over the world to view the finest art, antiques and design from over 150 carefully selected and highly regarded galleries from 11 different countries. This much anticipated international event offers everything from the best fine and decorative arts with premium collectors’ items including classic cars, fine wines and exceptional jewels, all for sale.
This year a total of twenty exhibitors will showcase the rarest and most exquisite antique and fine jewelry, including A La Vieille Russie, BOGH-ART, Fred Leighton, Grima, Hancocks, Hemmerle, Kentshire, Siegelson, Suzanne Syz, Symbolic & Chase, Verdura and Wartski.
The show runs from June 26th to July 2nd, 2014. Here are a few jewelry highlights from this year’s fair.
A La Vieille Russie
Fabergé Gold and Sepia Enamel Admiralty Clock
BOGH-ART
A pair of earrings from BOGH-ART
Fred Leighton
19th Century Old Mine Diamond Spoke Necklace – Old mine diamond discs with spiraling rose cut diamond centers are suspended in a double row necklace with a total of approximately 26 carats of old mine diamonds set in silver top yellow gold. The necklace has its original attachments to fit the clusters as earrings and three brooches.
An Important Ruby and Diamond Bracelet, by Suzanne Belperron – A paved field of mixed shape cabochon rubies is dotted with baguette diamonds totaling approximately 2.25 carats in platinum mountings with makers marks by societe Groene et Darde and French hallmarks.
Gold and Diamond Retro Tassel Necklace, by Mauboussin, circa 1940
Grima
Andrew Grima Quartz Cuff made of yellow Gold framing a 328-carat quartz with “Venus Hair” inclusions. Circa 1973
Andrew Grima ‘Lei’ Gold and Diamond Necklace
Pyrite Ring set on a base of granite set with brilliant-cut diamonds in white gold. By Francesca Grima, 2013
Hancocks
Duke & Duchess of Windsor’s ‘Torsade’ Necklace by Cartier, Paris, circa 1949 – Striking choker necklace composed of twenty-three rows of coral beads with an ornate emerald & diamond clasp
Superb Retro Bangle by Boucheron, Paris, circa 1940s – Rose gold bangle set with calibre cut sapphires and brilliant cut diamonds decorated with two tassels set with brilliant cut sapphires
Art Nouveau Pendant by René Lalique, Paris, circa 1900 – Beautiful Art Nouveau pendant with central carved ivory panel depicting an outstretched medieval-style figure in high-relief with a surround of enamelled leaves and brances interspersed with elongated bunches of glass grapes René Lalique, circa 1900
Superb double row diamond ‘Ribbon’ motif necklace set with baguette and round cut diamonds by Pierre Sterle, Paris c1960
Hemmerle
Hemmerle earrings – conch pearls, diamonds, copper and rose gold
Hemmerle ring – diamonds, conch pearls, and gold
Hemmerle earrings – aquamarine, jasper, concrete, copper and gold
Kentshire
A Pair of Mirrored Two-Colored Gold and Diamond Flower Brooches in 18K Gold, Chaumet, Paris, circa 1970
A Retro Gold and Diamond Bracelet, with a pair of scrolling two-color gold removable dress clips on an open gold frame, in 18K gold and platinum, circa 1940, by Van Cleef & Arpels, France. Numbered #47901
An Antique Egyptian Revival Brooch, in the form of a pharoah with enamel garments and diamond embellishment, in 18K gold, circa 1905, with French import marks.
Siegelson
Van Cleef & Arpels Art Deco Diamond, Emerald and Natural Pearl Brooch, circa 1926
Belle Époque Diamond and Rock Crystal Corsage Ornament by Cartier, Paris, circa 1913 A sculpted rock crystal double bow corsage ornament composed of foliage carved rock crystal ribbon loops accented with diamond details and embellished with collet-set diamond trim and fringe, centering an old-European-cut diamond knot within a two-tiered collet-set diamond surround, suspending a similarly designed detachable pear-shaped carved rock crystal pendant; mounted in millegrained platinum with French assay marks; in the original red leather Cartier box
The Cole Porter Egyptian Suite, brooch 1926, bracelet 1928, by Cartier
Symbolic & Chase
A diamond, emerald and yellow gold ‘Snake’ bracelet watch, by Bulgari Designed as a stylised snake, the curling yellow gold tubogas bracelet to a pavé-set diamond head accented with circular-cut emerald eyes, embellished with a cluster of marquise-cut diamonds, opening to reveal a watch with back-wound nickel-finished lever movement, mounted in gold and platinum, 1960s, signed Bulgari, Jaeger-le-Coultre movement numbered 1062479, case stamped AL26. Accompanied by a letter of authenticity by Carlo Illario confirming that this watch was manufactured for Bulgari in the 1960s. Note: This snake bracelet watch is of the same design as the one famously given to Elizabeth Taylor in 1961. Cf. Marion Fasel, Bulgari Serpenti Collection, Assouline 2014, front cover and subsequent plate showing the example owned by Elizabth Taylor, including a photo of her wearing it. Cf. Martin Chapman and Amanda Triossi, The Art of BVLGARI, Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco, P.67 for a photo of a watch of th esame design, Plate 23.
A lacquer, emerald and diamond brooch/pendant, by Georges Fouquet Of Modernist design, centring on a circular-cut emerald weighing 13.64 carats, within an annular surround of circular-cut diamonds accented with black lacquer, cut-through with a similarly-set stepped rectangular section, suspended from its original silk cord, later restored brooch fitting, 1924-1930. Accompanied by a photograph courtesy of the Fouquet Archives conserved by the Musée des Arts décoratifs, Paris.
A pair of Art Deco cabochon ruby and diamond chandelier earrings. Each designed as two half-hoop rows of drop-shaped ruby cabochons, between rose-cut diamond spacers, to a graduated cluster of ruby cabochons, suspended from a t-shaped baguette diamond and graduated rose-cut diamond surmount, circa 1920, post and alpha fitting.
A rare ‘Tutti Frutti’ diamond brooch, by Cartier Of stylised floral and foliate design, the central plaque embellished with an emerald carved with a foliate pattern, within a surround of similarly-carved and bead sapphires, emeralds and rubies, accenting an openwork surround set with circular-cut diamonds, connected to the flanking ogee arch motifs by diamond- and onyx-set arches, signed Cartier. Made by Cartier London in 1929. Length 8.8cm. Tutti Frutti The first example of ‘Tutti Frutti’ jewellery appeared at the famous Paris Exhibition of 1925 and, as many styles that were inaugurated at this event, went on to become one of the iconic motifs of the late 1920s and 1930s. The name, meaning ‘all fruits’ in Italian, has only more recently been coined and alludes to the use of rubies, emeralds and sapphires, carved with leaf designs or in beaded form, which evoke flowers or fruit and are often used to embellish stylised foliate designs set with diamonds. Although carved stones were not traditionally used in Indian jewellery, these gems were undoubtedly done for Cartier in India and used to evoke Indian’s colourful aesthetics. The most famous of these jewels are the ‘Hindou’ necklace made for Daisy Fellowes and the impressive pair of bracelets sold to Mrs Cole Porter in 1926. It is rare to find a brooch, the only other publicised one being in the Cartier Collection.
Suzanne Syz
Suzanne Syz ‘Take it or leave it’ Enamel and Diamond Earrings
Verdura
Verdura “Octopus” Pearl and Diamond Brooch
The “Black and White Maltese Cross” cuffs incorporate the Byzantine motifs which influenced Fulco and Coco Chanel during their collaborative years in Paris.
Verdura “Lily of the Valley” Brooch
Verdura “Flower Bud” Diamond and Kunzite Bracelet